Idle thoughts..

Cape Farewell in ’71 and Since and Still to Come

Advertisements

Reflecting on memories of Greenland…. I started from the commonplace notion that Greenland in general and maybe Cape Farewell in particular would develop in popularity somewhat like the French and Swiss alps in the 19th and 20th centuries. Camps that were for us hard-won would be reached by easy paths leading to cabins with bunks, running water, and meals provided. Bare mountains, vaguely mapped and bereft of ‘instructions’ would have guidebooks with diagrams, graded routes, and pictures of rock faces streaked with coloured or dashed or dotted lines. Choppers and fast launches to handy helipads or jetties would get the punters in at sea level for long weekends or maybe even daytrips.  Some of all this is of course already happening. Summer tours for visitors with guides are on offer (e.g. https://tasermiutgreenland.com/, and https://visitgreenland.com/things-to-do/climbing-mountaineering/ ).  Lodges for hikers are now available in some settlements (https://www.expeditiongreenland.com/greenland-accommodation/).

The mighty walls and faces that we took pains to avoid are being climbed. Routes such as described here: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/_print/web08f/newswire-grmovsek-greenland or here: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08x/newswire-tasermiut-fjord-tresidder and here: http://www.planetmountain.com/en/photos/new-difficult-rock-climbs-in-greenland/13823?s=1.

That’s all pretty much as it should be, but here’s hoping that the wilderness areas can be left without too many marks of man. Our memories, though, are safe from developments. And what a grand thing those memories are: the recalled pleasures of just being there, and doing all that; the freedom, the adventure, the dangers, and the joys of it. We owe Phil so much for getting us there and getting us out and up into the hills in search of all those good things.

I recently came across a book from 1922 by a Cambridge prof, and here are his words about Cape Farewell as seen from the sea:

‘On the return journey the weather was more favourable and we had a wonderful view of the coastline near the southern extremity of Greenland. On the horizon forty or fifty miles to the north we saw a jagged line of Alpine peaks, some tapering to slender conical points, others having the form of more massive pyramids separated from one another by depressions which seemed to show against a greenish blue band of sky, glimpses of the inland ice; though it may be we were looking along arms of some of the tortuous fjords that cut deep into the coast. The light of the sea contrasted with the deep blue of the mountainous headlands against a pale steely-blue background cut off by an overhanging bank of dark cloud.

Later in the evening the clouds dispersed and the serrated profile of the mountains was sharply outlined against a luminous sky; the ‘golden splendour of the north’ faded into night. The rapidly changing scene produced an impression of sadness and majesty; it was our farewell to a land which in some aspects merits the name given to it more than three hundred years ago – the Land of Desolation; it is a land remarkable for the splendid dignity of its scenery and possessed of a subtle power of inspiring affection tempered by a sense of awe.’ (from ‘A Summer in Greenland’ by A C Seward, CUP, 1922)

I liked that a lot: ‘ the splendid dignity of its scenery and possessed of a subtle power of inspiring affection tempered by a sense of awe.’

It feels great to have been in amongst it all. Thank you Phil, and thank you all the rest of the team. The future will see many more adventures there. Here’s to them and the folks who’ll enjoy them!

JS

“Was I there?”

…and a great example of the rewards of keeping a record

A benefit of this blog is that it has enabled others to get in touch with us. Long-lost former climbing companions and others can re-establish contact or those with an interest in the area we visited might seek or share information. There’s no better illustration of this than what happened recently when a former climbing companion of Phil’s got in touch.

Bill Atkinson, now 92, climbed the east ridge of the Grand Teton with Phil in 1957. The above image records the completion of their achievement.  That photo and more appears in Bill’s interesting account which can be read on his blog1 along with further details of their exploits.  Of course, this contemporary blog is not constructed from memory but from Bill’s notes made nearer the time. Phil is also an avid record keeper. I was not.

Why didn’t I keep more notes? Firstly not wanting to be associated with a Munro bagging mentality – ticking-off hills that have been ascended for the purpose of ticking-off on a list was not for me.2  My preference was to seek experiences of quality, sometimes at short-notice instigated by the like-minded ideas of others.  Secondly, a what-now-seems-strange determination not to prepare for turning into someone who does little other than recount memories – this even led to my deciding not to take photographs for a significant period. I got one thing right! I kept a diary in Greenland and am now very glad I did. I’ve paid for my lack of record keeping in being unable to join in recollections of exploits with former climbing companions. As very faint memories are stirred by the reminiscences of others,  often, my only contribution to the conversation has been to enquire, “Was I there?”

1  Bill’s blog is a delight with a wide range of interesting items. Can’t be many bloggers able to incorporate personal (and moving) ‘thank you’ letters from former Japanese POW’s!
2  Progress comes in many forms – Geograph fanatics make 1970’s Munro-baggers look like normal people. And list-driven dedication knows no bounds – a few years ago I met someone who was ticking-off trig points. He was in the 4000’s heading for completing the around 5,500 still existing. We had an interesting chat and a pleasant lunch together on the summit of Ailsa Craig. A far from easy place to visit due to weather and sea conditions – this was his fifth attempt and he lived in southern England!  Meanwhile, I was quite taken with the industrial archaeology of Ailsa Craig, including the fog-horn pressure vessels shown below.  Nothing weird about that eh?

tanks

RAS

Misunderstanding…..

misunderstanding_00002 all you see  –  now where have I heard that, I hear you ask? Well, it’s a lyric from the Beatles’ “Strawberry Fields.” Sometimes we fail to understand the obvious and then later wonder how we could have been so stupid. The following incident in a distant settlement in South Greenland illustrates the point.

He didn’t look all that important with his creased white shirt and checked trousers but he had aura about him and I’m not referring to the whiff of cooking that wafted into the wood-panelled room when he entered. No, without doubt he had some sort of air of authority. He was Danish, fair-haired (aren’t they all), big and chubby and he clearly liked the drink because his eyes lit up when he spotted our bottle of whisky. We suddenly became his friends. He sat with us. He chatted with us. Phil spotted a potentially-useful contact here and was keen to know more about his status within the KGH organisation. These initials stood for Den Kongelige Grønlandske Handel (Royal Greenland Trading Department), the Danish trading group whose relationship with Greenland seemed somewhat akin to that of the powerful British East India Company’s with China and the Indian subcontinent in earlier centuries. We were dependent upon their hospitality as we kicked our heels in Nanortalik , our expedition tea-chests deep in the hold of a ship miles offshore, navigating its slow way through thick pack-ice.

“Glug …. I am the chieff …gulp”.

This revelation seemed to impress Phil who had been matching the Dane, tumbler by tumbler, as was his rightful (perhaps that should be right fu’) duty as our leader. I wasn’t so sure, there was something not quite right here. It was the trousers as much as the big man’s demeanour that made me smell a rat. I don’t remember now why we ended up calling him Muggi but that’s the moniker that we gave him and he even ended up as one of the snakes on our games board. The temperature rose, he sweated and needed more whisky. Now was the opportunity to press our cause, homeless strangers in a distant land, so we fell upon his mercy.  We needed his help and surely he could use his position of power and influence to find us some temporary home and perhaps even some useful employment.

The bottle was finished, the last drop squeezed out into Muggi’s glass. He got up to go. Then I remembered who always wore trousers of light-blue small checks just as he uttered the words …

“No, I cannot help you. I am just the chef”.

Living is easy with your eyes closed …..

MCCJ

Then and Now – Nanortalik

…and somewhere to sit

In 1971 Nanortalik was a delightful little town – except that we spent three weeks there waiting for the ship with our food and equipment to penetrate the dense coastal pack ice. We had expected to be there for perhaps three days. But we made do. We ate the construction canteen out of food. We moved into an empty house. We got jobs mixing cement. We had philosophical discussions late into the night. And we walked all over the island constructing an elaborate decimal hill-identifying scheme that started with Hills 1, 2 and 3 and proceeded to Hill 1.5 and Hill 1.75 etc.

One of the best viewpoints was located at this boulder on Hill 1, looking across to Sermersoq Island.   In 2016 what appears to be the same boulder appears in a post from our Arctic Adventures guide Ida Nordkvist Permin.

Ida-Nanortalik-2016sm 800

(The earlier Then and Now – Coastal Transport, has also been updated with 2017 information)

IGW

Last Boat from Taserssuaq

August 26th 1971

A few months ago while searching for something (I no longer remember what!) in a cupboard an old manila envelope fell from a book. Unfortunately the envelope was not full of Scottish pound notes my ancestors had hidden from the taxman. However it did contain some ancient “treasure” – long- forgotten black and white negatives of our Greenland 1971 Expedition. Continue reading “Last Boat from Taserssuaq”

50 years have gone by…

A reunion of members of the 1967 expedition

Five members of the 1967 West Greenland Expedition held a fifty-year reunion on 21-23 September 2017 at a delectable wooden cabin in Glen Feshie.  They were Alan Robertson, Roger Nisbet, Bill Band, David Meldrum, and Phil Gribbon : Alan North sent best wishes and some pics to project.  Missing members were John Hall who has been untraceable for years, while Wilf Tauber tragically drowned in a climbing accident at Anglesey in 1971.  Nisbet and North are dwellers in USA and it was good to have their support. Continue reading “50 years have gone by…”