In 2016 it’s easy to cruise the west coast of Greenland as an independent traveler or on a travel agent package (for example Mammut in Reykjavik). We sailed on the 73 metre MS Sarfaq Ittuk of Greenland Umiaq Line for three days from the World Heritage Ice Fjord at Illulissat to the village of Narsaq in southern Greenland. The voyage features delightful cabins, local food and fabulous views of icebergs, mountains and wildlife. The ship carries a local guide, and we also greatly enjoyed our Arctic Adventure hosts Ane in Ilulissat and Ida in Narsaq.
In 1971, our expedition passed through Narsaq en-route to Tasermiut on the much smaller Taterak, which had very little passenger accommodation or food, and where
you couldn’t spend the night on board. Here you see our alternative: camped by the fountain in Qaqortoq, which is
now the southern terminus for the Sarfaq Ittuk. Threading through the icebergs remains a highlight of both voyages.