Five members of the 1967 West Greenland Expedition held a fifty-year reunion on 21-23 September 2017 at a delectable wooden cabin in Glen Feshie. They were Alan Robertson, Roger Nisbet, Bill Band, David Meldrum, and Phil Gribbon : Alan North sent best wishes and some pics to project. Missing members were John Hall who has been untraceable for years, while Wilf Tauber tragically drowned in a climbing accident at Anglesey in 1971. Nisbet and North are dwellers in USA and it was good to have their support.
The local Cairngorm weather was unkind and gave light dreich drizzle which three cyclists braved and rewarded themselves with big slices of excellent cake at the Inshriach cafe stop. The two softies ventured out for the brief post-rain sun blink but made sure to return before mine host drove the once-hardy mountaineering explorers to dine well at the Loch Inch outdoor water sport restaurant with the late evening sunset reflecting off the loch.
Needless to say there were many pictures flung on the screen bringing back many memories. Many were the interjections such as: where was that, I don’t remember doing that, who is that on the picture, what is that mountain, it all looks more impressive than I remember, it is steeper than it felt,….Don’t be discouraged because it all created an overwhelming impression of how lucky we were to have had such a unique experience and still be able to recall a few fleeting memories.
It just didn’t seem right. Our aircraft had been losing height and was now descending in a wide sweeping spiral. No reason was given for this behaviour. What on earth was going on? Ahead the pack ice was drifting down the east coast of Greenland and glistening in the sunlight under a startlingly blue sky. We were dropping steadily down towards a hostile sea packed with a jumbled jigsaw of broken ice floes and dotted with icebergs drifting calmly southward. Continue reading “Going to land?”
In 2016 it’s easy to cruise the west coast of Greenland as an independent traveler or on a travel agent package (for example Mammut in Reykjavik). We sailed on the 73 metre MS Sarfaq Ittuk of Greenland Umiaq Line for three days from the World Heritage Ice Fjord at Illulissat to the village of Narsaq in southern Greenland. The voyage features delightful cabins, local food and fabulous views of icebergs, mountains and wildlife. The ship carries a local guide, and we also greatly enjoyed our Arctic Adventure hosts Ane in Ilulissat and Ida in Narsaq. Continue reading “Then and now – coastal transport”
In the 45 years since 1971 some things have remained the same and others have changed dramatically. In 1971 Greenland was an exotic destination mainly visited by large formal expeditions. In 2016 it’s fairly easy to be an “adventure” tourist with regular flights from Iceland and regular flights up and down the coast – not to mention the delightful Arctic Umiaq Lines ship “Sarfaq Ittuk” that we used to get from Ilulissat to Narsaq. But of all the obvious changes, the most disconcerting is the clear evidence of global warming. Continue reading “Then and now – global warming?”
Expedition member Ian Walton has just returned to California from a July 2016 anniversary visit to the west coast of Greenland, 45 years after the 1971 University of St. Andrews mountaineering expedition. Here, in the first of a short series of then and now pictures and thoughts, are details of transit via Keflavik airport in Iceland.
In 1971 it was a single room terminal with no passenger comforts, and we had to spend the night before our ongoing flight to Narsarsuaq. We were hard up students. So we gathered our packs and headed out to the end of the runway to unroll our sleeping bags on the tundra. In the middle of the night we were woken by the sound of an American Military Police jeep – Keflavik was still an active NATO base in 1971. A broad Texas accent said “You can’t sleep here ..…–….. but I don’t see why the hell not!” And with that the jeep departed and we returned to our interrupted slumbers. In retrospect, the red flag may have been an unnecessary provocation. Continue reading “Then and now – transit via Keflavik”